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The
abandoned pay phone booth near the Border Patrol station at the Rio
Grande River crossing in Los Ebanos, TX is a visual metaphor for the surrounding
town.
A fjord south of the current site was used by the
area's
earliest settlers in the 1740s. In subsequent years it was
used
by cattle rustlers, thieves, liquor smugglers, and most recently drug
smugglers.
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The ferry crossing
was built in 1950connecting the towns of Los Ebanos, TX and Ciudad Diaz
Ordaz, Tamaulipas, Mexico.
A colonia formed in the town in the 1960s with a
population of approximately 825 people living in 150 dwellings.
Colonias
are unincorporated and unregulated communities built outside city
limits. They have minimal public services: no running water,
sewer
or electricity. Illegal immigrants were lured to them by real
estate developers who sold the land cheaply after the collapse of the
cotton market in the 1960s.
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The ferry crossing is a popular tourist
attraction because it is billed as the last hand-drawn ferry in the U.S.
This,
combined with the Duty Free store at the top of the hill, makes it very
convenient for visitors to purchase cheap liquor, cigarettes, perfume
designer purses and high-end watches. They transport their
purchases across the river into Mexico and return to Texas without even
getting off the ferry. Liquor and cigarettes, the most
popular
commodities are priced at less than half the cost of purchasing them in
U.S. retail stores.
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The
ferry operation is a family owned business. This gentleman is
the
conductor and collects the $.70 fare per person for the return trip
from Mexico. The price for vehicles and passengers is $3.00.
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Other
family members provide the power for drawing the ferry back and forth
across the river. Tourists are encouraged to participate.
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The
toll booth on the Texas side sports signs warning passengers not to
take photos of the Border Patrol Inspection Station or personnel.
Second only to the Duty Free shops, this is among the most
profitable legal establishments in town.
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Brady's
is the larger of the two Duty Free shops. Even here the
product
selection is very limited. Thankfully, they carry our
favorite
essential liquids, the most popular cigarette brands and a small
selection of beer.
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The
RBT shop, new in town this year, has a similar selection, but charges
slightly more. The sign on the shop next door says it's the
town
jail, but it is the storage room for the Duty Free store.
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The
souvenir shop sells Mexican arts and crafts, t-shirts, post cards and
copies of old Pancho Villa photos Customers can also get a
glass
of beer, soft drinks and ice cream here.
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A picture postcard
from ca. 1950, which
we bought from the souvenir shop
above, shows this building as a thriving tourist attraction.
The
office on the left was a jail, in the center was a restaurant and at
the right was a gun shop. There were Roy Rogers type cowboys
in front with their six-shooters on their hips and horses tied to
railings at the front of the building. The jail is now full
of discarded clothing and trash bags left by illegal immigrants.
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Here's a nice little place for rent in
the residential section of town not too far from the ferry.
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Note the amenities that come with this
cute little bungalow:an outdoor
fridg and a full-size sofa.
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This place looks as though it was one
of the nicer homes in town, once upon a time.
There
are a few modern, nicely kept homes in the village, a beautiful,
Spanish style, Catholic church and a new Post Office. There is
still much room for development.
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Whether Mario's was ever a successful restaurant or market is, for me,
an unanswered question. It is now a family home, complete with several well-fed guard dogs and toys for the children
Los
Ebanos is only a couple miles off the beaten path and hundreds, maybe
thousands, of people visit the town every week primarily to visit the
Duty Free shops. It seems this would be an ideal location for a
developer to build restaurants, shops and entertainment facilities that
would create even greater tourism. |
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